Module Five – Chapter Eight – PAPER RELIEF INTO FABRIC RELIEF – PART ONE

Chapter Eight requires that five paper relief surfaces made for Chapter 3 are each translated into two different ways in fabric. For an easy reference I have placed both the photographic record from Chapter 1 (on the left) and its related paper relief surface from Chapter 3 (on the right) before the picture of each fabric sample.


Fabric sample 1 – First translation into fabric


 


The background is a layer of stitch and tear support irregularly wrinkled and sewn to a sheet of paper. On it fragments of different fabrics torn and shredded in imitation of rust “pebbles” (grey organza, cheesecloth, tulle net, cream-coloured jersey). Technique: appliqué.





Detail





Fabric sample 2 – Second translation into fabric





For this second interpretation in fabric I made a sandwich of a printed cotton, grey lining, curtain fabric and tarlatan, stitched them all together with randomly wavy lines and cut irregular diamond areas to reveal the background layer in different ways. Technique: wadded quilting.





Detail





Fabric sample 3 – First translation into fabric



 


For the background I burnt an old linen sheet with a candle in different areas and fixed it on a layer of soft kunin felt distressed along its edges. This background was then ripped and partially mended. Melted strips of synthetic net were stitched on it. Through the main gush at the centre different materials flourish from the bottom.  Techniques: burnt and melted edges, appliqué, wadded quilting.






Detail





 Fabric sample 4 – Second translation into fabric






For this second interpretation I wanted to obtain a less textured surface with a shallow relief. Techniques: wadded quilting, appliqué, machine embroidery.





 Detail




Fabric sample 5 – First translation into fabric


 


For this heavily textured surface I prepared a substantial background with a sandwich of different fabrics, embroidered it, and made big tucks in all directions. I finished by padding some areas from the back. Techniques: wadded quilting, tucking, padded quilting.





 Detail





 Fabric sample 6 – Second translation into fabric






Techniques: shaped quilting (for the rust “pebbles”), free machine embroidery in the recessed areas.





 Detail

Module Five – Chapter SEVEN – TACTILE CONTRASTS

I have finally put together my group of tactile samples!
From top to bottom and from left to right:

1 Zigzag gathering over a string – Habotai silk
2 Furrowing – Synthetic velvet
3 Wadded quilting – Habotai silk
4 Darts – Woven linen
5 Hand gathering – Cotton canvas
6 Wadded quilting – Habotai silk
7 Partially seamed tucks – Habotai silk
8 Snipped tucks – Habotai silk
9 Cross-tacked tucks – Habotai silk
10 Tucks set with a stay - Cheesecloth
11 Criss-crossing pintucks – Curtain net
12 Hand-gathered fabric strips, stitched together - Muslim
13 Blind tucks – Synthetic net
14 Cording – Tulle net
15 Irregular hand gathering – Kunin felt
16 Padded quilting – Woven cotton
17 Wadded quilting – Fleece padding and tulle net
18 Wadded quilting – String lengths and tulle net
19 Hand gathering with loose wool thread, loops cut and knotted
20 Wadded quilting with rose tea blossoms
21 Padded quilting with ties
22 Blind tucks, then slashed open – Synthetic felt
23 Slashed pintucks - Cheesecloth
24 Contoured tucks – Cotton net

And a couple of more detailed views: